With the ScaraClock finally finished, it is time for a new project!
I have always found 3D printers extremely fascinating. I have used them extensively during my student years and now at work for both prototyping and my own various projects. However, for some reason I never had a proper 3d printer myself. I had(have) a ooooold prusa i3, one of the very first ones. But it simply required way to much fiddling to print anything on it. It was slow and quality suffered as Z height increased. So now it’s in a box in the basement..
I have acces to printers at work, but I miss having my own machine at home. So for a while I have been looking at different machines out there and considered to build a VORON, annex engineering or a Vzbot. But the E3D tool changer (and all the others) are also just so cool! Using a Haas CNC at work from time to time, I know that these tool changing type of machines are the future of FDM 3d printing.
Now, I am not the type for buying finished products.. I always go for at least kits that I have to build myself. But none of the machines mentioned above had everything I wanted from a printer..
I see only one solution to this problem.. I have to design my own!
This is what my current draft design looks like.
The asthetics are generally inspired by the very beautiful Voron 2.4. I really love the look of this machine. It is elegant and clean. Thats why my design generally looks like The Voron 2.4. When we dive deeper there are still resemblances to the Voron, but also very big differences.
The XY motion system is a crossed gantry cartesian style mechanism.
The entire XY mechanism is moving in Z instead of the bed. There are two main reasons to do this:
In addition, the XY motion system:
The machine use a automatic pick and drop style tool changing printhead because, it is the only real good method of printing in multiple materials in one print. I.e soulible supports or flexible sctions in otherwhise stiff parts.
In addition, the tool chganger will:
The XY mechanism will be lifted by 4 motors. This is generally overconstrained as only 3 points are required to define a plane. But Eddie the Engineer explains it well.
The Z-axis will not use lead screws or ball screws but belts. This is getting more and more common I.e. Voron 2.4.
Having 4 motors lifting the Z-axis provides much more torque and power than a single motor. This combined with a belted Z drive provides much faster Z moves.
The only downside to belted Z is that it will drop down when the machine is turned off or the steppers are dissabled if the weight is to high. Therefore, something must be done to prevent this. I am still not sure how to prevent Z-drop yet. But my options are:
In addition, the Z-Axis will:
The heatbed will be a Mandala Rosework style magnetic bed. It will be machined from a cast aluminum plate. These plates are very temperature stable and are very flat.
In addition, the bed will:
I plan to use either the Mosquito magnum+ or the Phaetus Dragon in their water cooled version.
The requirements for the hotends are:
The frame is built with 30×30 and 30×60 extrusions to increase stifness.
In addition, the frame will:
I am done with marlin. I simply hate having to re-compile for even the smallest firmware changes. Klipper and reprapfirmware are so geniously made, that you can simply edit the firmware through the built in web interface – Using one of these two is a no brainer.
I have chosen to go with Klipper, as I really like the features, and webinterface they provide. It is also a fast moving firmware that is rigorously updated by the developers!
The control electronics will most likely be two Fysetc Spider or BigTreeTech Octopus Pro boards. Currently I am leaning twoards the latter as they allow you to use any voltage for any driver.
The reason I need two of theses 8 driver boards are that this concept uses redicoulesly many steppers:
Thats at least 15 steppers. In addition to the steppers I also need 5 heaters and thermistors, and 11 end stops.
I want to use boards where I can replace drivers without replacing the entire board. Both in case of failure but also for experimenting.
I will do anything to keep the noise of the machine to a minimum when printing and it MUST be SILENT, when idle. Therfore, I have chosen to use 4 120 mm PC fans to cool everything (including the watercoled hotends).
I was first not sure I even wanted a Display.. After all Klipper has a awesome webinterface that works on the phone. So Why?
But I had to remove the display from the printer at work (running klipper) and I now know.. I WANT a display!
Still not sure what I will use in the end but right now I am thinking of either a 10″ tablet simply running the Web interface or Klipperscreen running on a 10″ touch screen. I am leaning towards the latter as it does not require internet connection. Only downside is that it does not allow you to view your webcam (I want a nozzle cam).